As I work with dogs that are reactive, this dog when I started his training to approaching other dogs took set ups to help him stay under threshold. Keeping a dog under threshold, meaning the dog is not lunging toward the other dog or barking and showing aggressive behaviors.
I knew he needed specific set ups, when I did a behavioral assessment on him while he was on leash. He would get very close to the other dog and then lunge and nip at the other dog, even on walks. I knew then I needed to start a plan of action to help him. Behavior Adjustment Training is done by not putting the dog into a situation where they will become reactive.
I had my assistant walking in the background with a dog as I worked with Monroe the dog that is reactive in the video. My goal is to never put a dog in a situation for them to fail. I used a longline to help keep him loose and for him to make choices. He chose to look at the other dog and I rewarded him. He would come back to me, and he is rewarded. He laid on the ground and rolled around. These were all good choices, and he was paid for the good behavior.
There are many reasons a dog may be reactive. As everyone knows anything living is reactive. Even us humans are at times. A coffee spilling near a computer, or abrupt stop of a vehicle in front of us. With animals it's up to us to find out what is the cause and why this animal is reactive.
As I took in the history on Monroe it was very short. He was young and was found as a stray and ended up in a shelter. After many daily sessions set up with Behavior Adjustment Training, he was successfully helped, and now living his life with two other dogs and a fire fighter.
He was put on a plan to first exercise, then add in more enrichment and mind stimulation. A good balance to help him be successful.
The sessions were ended on a good note as I worked with Monroe. Each step slowly added in to help him. All of this training was positive reinforcement, there is no reason to use punishment on a dog that is struggling.
The tools and equipment used in his behavior adjustment training was small pieces of treat that were soft. I used scatter feeding as you can see in the video. The longline gave him agency to move about making choices. A harness with both front and back D rings on it. I generally use the back D ring. Using a harness doesn't cause stress to the neck area.
Using aversive tools, such as choke chains, prong collars that pinch or shock also known as (e collar) would be like throwing more fuel into a fire. If you have ever seen fuel thrown into a fire, the fire gets bigger. These tools can cause problems to get bigger.
Behavior Adjustment Training is not about putting the dog into a bad situation. Pushing a dog and flooding a dog with something they are fearful of is not the answer.
Safety and Security
Are both very important and should be used. Safety includes a good quality leash that fits well into your hand. A harness that fits your dog well, and not too loose on the body. Recall training can help, that is a whole different discussion. Basker muzzle acclimation helps to prevent bites and injuries. A secure yard with a fence, a physical fence helps to prevent other animals coming into the yard, and mostly from your dog getting out. Use 100 % supervision when your dog is outdoors. Removing poisonous plants from the home and yard. Security limiting or eliminating exposure to triggers which causes stress. Give the dog time to learn the skills to navigate those triggers. Creating a safe space for your dog, a place where they feel safe and secure. Teaching your dog to move away from a trigger. Avoiding stressors really does help in learning.
© 2024 Mecca Curtice Mecca's All Breed Dog Training, LLC.
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